Birds are the only living descendants of the dinosaurs, their diet if efficient and simple. As birds have now been bred to produce more eggs, we have to provide them with the nutrition they need. This comes in the form of layers pellets made to a European standard. 

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The pellets will turn to mash as the bird drinks water, so no need for additional grit. Adding grit to the diet only displaces nutrition from pellets and causes problems during development and peak lay. Birds pecking at grasses and herbs that benefit from additional hard material will pick up sufficient amounts from bugs and soils at the same time. 

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The pellets contain a balance of nutrients , if there is an apparent calcium defficiency, its probably related to potassium levels that influence the uptake of calcium, stuffing the bird with oyster shell grit often worsens overall nutrient uptake. 

 

WINTER FEEDING Do not change their diet in Winter.  Hens cant regulate their body temperature like we can, its all feed dependant and their feathers and perching together does the rest. Warm porridge is messing with their natural systems and can cause problems as that artificial warming wears off.  

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WORMING Especially in the winter months, less daylight hours means less feed intake when they need it the most, so you don't want to be feeding intestinal worms at the expense of your hen. They will need a proper wormer, not something off amazon that says "helps with worms"

A coop can be very basic , there are lots of home made ideas on the internet. We used to convert sheds to allow ease of access to clean and indoor play space for winter, but its all about how you work with the space you have. Here's some basic pointers.....

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How often you want to be mucking out (more space means more days between muck outs)

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Ease of mucking out 

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Good Ventilation - birds like gentle airflow , not am airtight box both in Winter and Summer. 

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Don't muck out too often - their home is a habitat , it will have spiders , lice, bugs and dusty shaving with bits of poo in it. This "nest ecosystem" without being allowed to get 'stinkin' is a challenge for any unwanted predators such as red mite that in a super clean coop march through unchallenged. 

 

Dust extracted shavings (from the £12 large bales not the expensive small bales) on the coop floor to absorb and release moisture, straw in the nestbox to encourage laying and cushion the eggs. 

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The run / ranging area is key, they will be sticking their beaks in this. You want this area to be free draining, minimum of one square metre per bird and contain a dust bath of dry soil and a dash of play sand. we often use old large tyres, but anything will do that can accommodate a third of the birds at once. Ideally you can move the house and run or just the run from one place to another. I used to have two runs attached and when one was hammered, just open the other one up and let the ground recover by forking it over. 

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NO TOYS - they are not canaries , they do not want a swing or be tortured with a mirror or anything that can move on its own in the wind. Hanging veg and odd grape or strawberry will provide plenty of fun on their terms.

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Everyone is different and your unique experiences will guide you , birds are good at training their keepers. 

People often forget that poultry as pets are still livestock, they have a strong flock mentality and routine husbandry. Most of all , chickens have to do chickeny things. scratching , pecking at everything, seeking out shade, seeking out sun (yes chickens sunbathe) dustbathing to rub off dead skin and unwelcome guests. 

 

 

This is where things get complicated 

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Your little Henrietta has a dark side and demonstrates the spookier side of life like no other animal.

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Flock additions  - be prepared for WW3. Mature hens rarely tolerate immature , at the very least they will chase them away from feeders, at worst injurious pecking , even when the animal is cowering in the corner. 

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If the new addition is big enough to spar and find her way into the pecking order , chances are as a new bird she hasn't started laying yet. adding non laying birds to a laying group can stop the laying hens from laying as fertility synchronises. This also happens where older birds that cool off in Winter slow or stop the normally strong lay in young additions. When customers want to have a new flock for eggs , its not uncommon to give the old flock typically 5-7 years old a crude retirement home , and house the new flock in the main house and run as the new egg factory. A basic second pen also works well for rearing future birds from youngsters for fun.